The iconic Taverna del Mar marked its 90th anniversary with a special tasting menu, reflecting on its rich history since opening during the Spanish Civil War.
On July 19, 2026, the Taverna del Mar in S’Agaró celebrated its 90th anniversary, a milestone that highlights its enduring legacy in the Catalan culinary scene. Originally opened just after the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War, this historic restaurant has become a beloved institution for locals and tourists alike.
The establishment was designed by architect Francesc Folguera as part of an ambitious garden city project initiated by industrialist Josep Ensesa. However, its inaugural day was marred by the war’s onset, leading to an immediate closure. It wasn’t until summer 1939 that it reopened its doors to patrons.
“My grandfather had a remarkable vision; he was a pioneer of beach tourism,” said Virginia Ensesa Viñas, representing the fourth generation of her family involved with Taverna del Mar and Hostal La Gavina. This family connection has been crucial to maintaining the restaurant’s identity over nearly a century.
The Taverna replaced another dining venue destroyed by fire in 1935, which had also been part of S’Agaró’s urban development. The original structure’s remnants can still be seen today at nearby Els Banys.
This anniversary is not just about celebrating longevity but also about honoring culinary excellence. Under chef Sergio Ártica, Taverna del Mar introduced a commemorative tasting menu featuring local delicacies such as Palamós shrimp cooked in Sant Pol water and French oysters paired with red tuna tartare.
The Ensesa family’s journey into hospitality began much earlier, with their first ventures into beach tourism dating back to 1920. They faced significant challenges in attracting investment for seaside businesses when affluent clientele preferred mountain resorts over coastal retreats. “It was difficult to find partners willing to invest in beachside ventures,” Virginia noted.
The restaurant’s founders implemented innovative strategies to draw visitors, including establishing bus services from Sant Feliu de Guíxols to Sant Pol beach and offering affordable amenities like showers and rental cabanas. To enhance their appeal during summer months, they organized various entertainment events ranging from Charleston dances to jazz concerts.
Taverna del Mar has hosted numerous notable figures throughout its history, including artists and writers like renowned Catalan author Josep Pla. His admiration for both La Gavina and Josep Ensesa Pujadas is well-documented, showcasing how intertwined cultural figures are with this landmark establishment.
The restaurant also gained fame as a filming location for movies such as ‘Suddenly Last Summer’ starring Elizabeth Taylor and ‘Pandora and the Flying Dutchman,’ where actors enjoyed leisure time at Sant Pol beach between takes.
The president of the Acadèmia Catalana de Gastronomia, Joan Font, praised Ensesa’s unique contributions to gastronomy while commending his descendants for preserving this cherished family business without selling it off.
This celebration not only marks nine decades of service but also serves as a reminder of how far S’Agaró has come since those early days fraught with uncertainty. As locals and visitors gather at Taverna del Mar today, they partake in more than just food; they engage with a rich tapestry woven through generations.
The festivities will continue throughout July at Taverna del Mar. For those wishing to experience this historic venue firsthand or enjoy the special anniversary menu, reservations are recommended due to high demand during this celebratory month.
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